Why should I buy an engine from Bad Attitude Engines?
Answer: We are not an assembly line shop. Every one of our engines is unique and one of a kind. We do all our own machine work and use only the best parts. With over 30 years experience, we’ve got you covered.

What does a short block consist of?
Answer: Fully machined block, with crank, rods, pistons, cam and timing set installed.

What does a long block consist of?
Answer: Short block with heads, lifters, pushrods and rockers installed.

How much static compression can I run on pump gas?
Answer: 9.5:1 with cast iron heads, 10.5:1 with aluminum heads.

Do I need to retard the ignition when using nitrous?
Answer: Yes, anything over a 100hp shot will require a progressive timing retard.

Do I need to retard the ignition with a boosted application?
Answer: Yes, progressive timing retard is a must.

Should I use an ignition cut off wired to my fuel system?
Answer: Absolutely, many engines have fried because they lost fuel pressure while under boost or nitrous.

Should I use steel or aluminum rods?
Answer: For really high rpm applications or heavy power adder set ups aluminum is the way to go, all others steel.

What size carburetor should I use?
Due to the C.I.D., rpm range and volumetric effiency of the particular combination, let us recommend the right carburetor for you.

Should I balance my rotating assembly even if it is a street engine?
Answer: Yes, the benefits definitely outweigh the cost, we balance all our engines.

Will I need hardened seats installed in my older cast iron heads?
Answer: It’s not necessary, but it’s a good insurance policy, mainly too lean an air/fuel ratio or improper timing pounds out seats, not unleaded fuel.

After I install an higher horsepower engine will I need to make any other changes?
Answer: Absolutely, upgrades must be made to the fuel delivery system, cooling system, exhaust, torque converter or clutch, etc. We can help you with all the parts you’ll need.

Should I degree the cam?
Answer: Yes, unless it’s a bone stock restoration, degreeing the cam will correct all the stacking tolerances in the new parts, also will optimize engine performance.

How do I break in my new motor?
Answer: Flat tappet cams must be run at 2000-3000 rpms for the first 20 minutes using Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 Break-in oil and Comp Cams break-in additive, all engines need to have timing set at full advance during break-in, we mark the balancer at this spot and use a non adjustable timing light, also during break-in oil pressure and coolant temperature MUST be monitored.

Should I port my cylinder heads?
Answer: Unless you are a professional head porter with a flowbench, leave them alone. We’ve seen many heads ruined by inexperienced people. We deal with some of the best head porters in the country, let us handle it for you.

Should I use an aluminum block?
Answer: There are many advantages, replaceable sleeves, weight savings, and repairability. That said, today’s aftermarket cast iron blocks fit the bill in most cases.

Should I use aluminum heads?
Answer: Many advantages to them as well, weight, repairability, flow potential, variety of design, heat dissipation, etc.

Should I buy a new rotating assembly even for a street engine?
Answer: Yes, unless it’s unavailable at a reasonable cost for your engine. For popular ones we can sell you brand new parts for about as much as it costs to machine the original parts.

Will I need to O ring my block for nitrous or boosted applications?
Answer: Only in the most extreme cylinder pressure engines (Nitromethane or big superchargers and turbos)

Can I use a stock oil pan and pump?
Answer: Only if it’s a bone stock or restoration rebuild, all high performance and racing engines need increased oil capacity and volume.